I know from the history of their work at Marigold Kitchen, which I had awarded three bells and which they still own, that Lanza and Kochan are capable of producing beautiful plates of progressive, inventive food. And certainly there are instances at Talk, their first venture in Center City, where their modernist touch is in artful full bloom. The dish called "mushrooms," for example, a two-part study of mushrooms in sky and earth: a flaky warm tartlet filled with a soil-dark mince of creminis that sits on a white plate polka-dotted with sherry agrodolce across from a terrine of mushrooms suspended in a rolled cloud of goat cheese. You taste the texture and intensity of the 'shrooms in different ways, triggered further by the umami crunch of a maitake cracker. And there's even a throwback hint to that terrine rolled in pine nuts, recalling, but improving upon, the cheese balls of yore.